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Marvellous Malta
by April Waterston | 16 January 2020
I’m sitting on the terrace of the Raffael trattoria in St Julian’s, chilled glass of Moscato in hand, gazing over the brightly coloured boats populating the water in Spinola Bay. I’m awaiting my near-daily serving of bruschetta – a tradition when visiting the Mediterranean – and soaking in the rays beating down from above. With only the sound of birds and an accordion playing faintly in the distance, in this moment there is nowhere I’d rather be.
At least, that’s where I am if I close my eyes. In reality, as I write this from our Croydon-based office, the sun has already set on yet another wet and dreary January day. The post-Christmas blues have well and truly set in, and whilst I spend each lunch break scanning the web for winter holiday deals, I find my mind wandering back to my autumnal Maltese getaway.
Take it slow
Far from the harsh reality of London commuting, Malta is best experienced at a leisurely pace. It may be a relatively small island, but it is bursting with lively paved streets and hidden tranquil gardens. It’s easy to wile away the days meandering from bay to bay and taking in the bright azure along the coast. Not just a summer destination, the mild weather from October through March makes it the perfect destination for a relaxing break year-round.
Small but mighty
My journey had started in the island’s capital, Valletta. Although technically a city, the capital is less than 1km2 in size. Quaint shop-lined roads are adorned with bright red and orange regal banners, leading down to the sea on the east of the island.
The high street offers an eclectic mix of big British retail names interspersed with smaller local shops, home to hundreds of intricate Maltese glass constructs and ornate brass doorknockers. The roads are bustling with locals and tourists alike, but every corner offers a near-silent road to stroll down at leisure.
Going green
After a morning well spent ambling from store to store, a visit to the Upper Barrakka gardens is worth the uphill walk. Offering sweeping views of Valletta’s Grand Harbour, the gardens date back to the 1600s and feature imposing archways, monuments, fountains and an abundance of olive trees. A well-timed visit will coincide with the firing of the Saluting Battery canons below, which fire daily at midday.
There are pockets of nature dotted throughout the island. Another favourite is the San Anton Gardens in Attard. Surrounding the San Anton Palace (now home to the Maltese President), these gardens are larger than the Barrakka Gardens and are home to ponds full of ducks and terrapins, as well as the occasional peacock.
Silent charm
Well worth a visit is the northern city of Mdina. Once the old capital, the Silent City oozes charm – on every narrow street, brightly-coloured and ornately-carved doors stand out against the stone buildings, some surrounded by the glowing pink flowers from Judas trees. Originally the home of King’s Landing in Season One of the popular television series, Game of Thrones, walking through this walled city truly is like taking a step back in time.
To really get to know Malta, pick up a fresh pastizz (a pastry filled with ricotta and peas) and a bottle of Kinnie (a local bitter orange drink) and take your time getting lost – it’s definitely the best way to explore.
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