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Nevis, the natural Island
by Jessica Pook | 10 October 2019
“Is this low season?” I ask, as we stop at another secluded and deserted beach, this one glittering with swirls of black and yellow sand.
“I guess you could say that, but it never gets much busier,” says our guide from the Nevis Tourist Board. “In Nevis you often get your own private beach.”
Considering I’ve jetted six minutes across from its bustling sister island, St. Kitts, Nevis feels like another world. Its thick rainforest stretches right to the top of the dormant volcano, Nevis’ centrepiece, and just one road circles the entire island, a road that is frequented more often by donkeys and goats than cars.
We hop on a buggy and zip around the island as part of a Funky Monkey tour and I’m in awe of how tranquil it feels. Due to its small size, Nevis seems to have escaped the hoards of cruise ship tourists that overcrowds some of its Caribbean siblings. Part of its charm is that you feel you have stumbled upon something genuine that hasn’t been tainted by tourism.
It’s easy to relax into the quiet and the local’s calm and laid-back nature only adds to its appeal. The only time I rush is to take cover from short bursts of tropical showers that descend as we walk around Golden Rock, an arty boutique-style inn surrounded by wild tropical gardens. But even then, the rain seems to add something to this watery oasis.
Hidden within the gardens are 11 guest rooms offering views across the ocean. Carefully chosen furnishings by owners and artists Helen and Brice Marden add a pop of colour and texture at every corner you turn. Guests also have the chance to stay in the sugar mill which dates back to the 19th century. Even for clients that aren’t staying, it’s well worth visiting for a lobster sandwich, enjoyed between the pagodas and ponds.
As we head to Lovers beach I’m told that the beaches on Nevis are favoured by Hawksbill turtles to lay their eggs. From June to October these determined animals haul themselves onto the shores to bury their eggs. The chances are, if you’re patient, you’re likely to get a glimpse.
The natural theme continues as we stop at the hot springs at Bath Village in Charlseton for a dip. The temperature rises to above 30 degrees out of the water so it’s a particularly quick dip, but I’m promised that I’ll be rewarded with soft and glowing skin, despite the immediate prune-like texture.
Dotted across the island I notice remains of Nevis’ sugarcane cultivation, which served as its mainstay economy up until 2005. Some sugar plantations have now been converted into hotels such as the Montpelier Plantation and Beach, a favourite stay for Princess Diana.
But the island’s most beloved historical claim is the story of Lord Horatio Nelson and Fanny Nisbit. Nelson visited the island in 18th century and went on to marry Fanny, a Nevision. Their story can be followed in the ‘Nevis in the time of Nelson’ museum dedicated to him, which is said to be the largest collection of Nelson relics in the Western Hemisphere.
As we come to the end of our fleeting visit something breaks the silence we’ve become accustom to. We nestle in to the Sunshine Bar and order a famous Killer Bee rum punch, the sound of soca music is blaring from a nearby speaker. Although I love this peaceful island, it’s nice to know that there’s still a place for a Caribbean party.
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