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Tunbridge Wells turns it around
by Sally Parker | 21 April 2022

Ever since ‘Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells’ became the term for a person who writes letters of moral outrage to the Beeb, Royal Tunbridge Wells might have suffered a bit of an image problem. In some people’s eyes, it may seem conservative or, dare I say, a bit dull? Stop right there reader! After a recent visit I can safely say, think again.
I discovered unique shops, independent cafés and restaurants specialising in everything from vegan to Australian, bars selling locally-distilled craft gin, green spaces, theatres, and entertainment venues galore. Definitely not conservative and anything but dull, Beardyman is playing The Forum this weekend for goodness’ sake! All of this, a stone’s throw from some stunning Kent and Sussex countryside makes it a wonderful and varied place to spend a night, or three.
Visitors have been coming to the area since the seventeenth century when it quickly became the place to see or be seen in. Local spots such as the historic Pantiles have always attracted a steady stream of visitors, but the town is currently enjoying a transformation with some new initiatives and attractions.
David Baddiel and Jo Brand are among the writers at the inaugural Tunbridge Wells Literary Festival which takes place over the weekend of April 29 to May 2. In addition to the many well-known names, the programme of events also includes new writers and children’s literature.
The festival coincides with the opening of The Amelia Scott, a culture and community space, offering a range of unique experiences for visitors which include a museum on the history of RTW. Hands-on arts and heritage experiences and a range of temporary exhibitions include the ‘After Dark’ programme, the first event of which is called Hearts, Arts and Drag Queens, a cabaret style event featuring drag and burlesque performances.
Sadly, it occurred to me that I can’t think of that many buildings which are named after a woman, but RTW likes to do things differently. Amelia Scott was a British social reformer, campaigner for women's suffrage and one of the first two women elected as a local councillor. Much of her activism focused on young, working class women as she raised awareness of the needs of new mothers and workhouse inmates. Among her many achievements she assisted Belgian refugees during the First World War, campaigned for the recruitment of women into the police, and for the transformation of a workhouse into a modern hospital.
There are two theatres, the Tunbridge Wells Assembly Hall Theatre, built in 1939 as a dance hall, offering touring plays, music and comedy, and Trinity Theatre which also has film and live music performances, along with an art gallery with exhibitions from local artists. The Forum is the place to go for live music and DJ sets.
The shopping areas each have their own personalities, the historic grandeur of the Pantiles, traditional High Street or modern vibes of Camden Road. All are packed full of independent, one-of-a-kind shops, cafes, and bars, from Michelin star to artisan, and everything in between. A guided tour of the Pantiles is a great way to find out more about the history of the town and hear stories of the many royal visitors that gave it its name.
The Grove is the oldest park in RTW, while in the town centre Calverley Grounds has events throughout the year including live music in the summer. For a longer hike grab your walking boots and head for the Common or take the Spa Valley Railway, a short steam train ride to High Rocks, a huge sandstone outcrop.
To be central to the action, the Tunbridge Wells Hotel, a beautifully restored Georgian building, is a great place to stay, or just head to the Eating House Restaurant, whose homemade bread is a speciality. You can’t miss it, there are pink roses everywhere making a stunning setting for a meal any time of day.
To sample a local ‘Pipehouse Gin’ or Kent wine, head to Geography, a small, independent wine bar with over 100 wines available including more than 50 by the glass. Wine Garden of England is a group of seven wineries working together with the vision of making everyone as passionate about Kent wines as they are.
Opera House pub is literally just that- an opera house reimagined as a traditional boozer. Choose a table on the stage, and look out towards the dress and upper circles (all the seats are still there along with chandeliers, booths and signage) and you can imagine what it must have been like to perform there when it opened in 1902. I’m sure many people have felt the need to burst into joyous song on Saturday night after a day exploring RTW!
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